I am sorry for my absence here on the bloggisphere, but I believe I have a lot of good information to cover in this edition. Plus, equipment issues have raised my blood pressure to new heights over the last couple weeks so some time at the computer will do me well. First off, after a very long two months, I have hired my new assistant. His name is Ashton Box, and comes here from Brookridge Country Club. He has jumped right in and is really taking a lot of weight off of my shoulders.
So in my humble opinion, our golf course is outstanding right now and I have a lot of confidence moving forward that we will remain in good shape. Now I could still write a novel about things I don't like or areas that need improvements, but that will always be my curse that comes with the job. The following are some areas that I have made adjustments in and the results that we are seeing because of them.
Green's Fertility
Fertilizer and nutrients make the plant grow. I know, mind blowing right? That is great and all, but turf that is growing a lot is slow (talking green speed) and it is more prone to disease. Nitrogen is the main nutrient that causes growth and green color. It is also how turf managers quantify how much they are feeding their turf. A typical rule of thumb is a tenth of a pound of Nitrogen per thousand square feet per week to keep a bentgrass plant in good health, without overdoing it. My first year here I sprayed a tenth a pound every other week on greens in order to try and keep things lean. It did alright. Last year I played with some different and higher quality fertilizer on the every other week schedule, but only sprayed half a tenth of a pound of Nitrogen. I saw better results due to the new fert having a combination of amino acids in the mix. I won't go down that rabbit hole, but amino acids are good. I still was not satisfied with the off week between applications. This year I have been spraying the same half a tenth every week and I really like the results. We are keeping the dark green color and I havn't seen any flushes of growth. Now as far as the lower putting green goes, it is getting a lot more food than any other green. This is so it can take all of the traffic that it receives. It still gets the same sprays as the others, but I have applied monthly applications of a slow release granular fertilizer at the rate of 3 tenths of a pound of Nitrogen. I havn't putted on it myself, but I imagine it is a bit slower than the others and for that I am sorry. It is not a true representation of the greens on the course, but I really just want to keep it alive. Everybody uses the lower green instead of the upper green and I completely understand. I wouldn't use the top one either. I feel like it is a sorry excuse for a practice green since it is nothing but a skinny hill of bentgrass.
Tee Fertility
This is what I am most excited about. We had a lot of grass to grow on our tees and I believe we are accomplishing that! Like the greens, I have increased the quality of fertilizer for the tees and I am applying it more often. 1 big thing that is contributing to the goal is that I have stopped using a growth regulator on tees. I mean, if I want to grow a lot of turf in an area, why in the world would I spray something that slows down growth.
I made another adjustment when it comes to chem/fert in fairways as well. Less fertilizer and a combo of 2 different growth regulators. In the past we have used a high rate of just 1 growth regulator and it had worked ok until last September when it failed miserably. The regulator that we had been using needed to be watered in before the plant would take it in and start to use it. This could take up to 3 extra days before the plant would slow its roll. Not good enough for me, especially when the stars don't always align for me on what I want to do on certain days. So I have cut the rate of that same chemical in half and I have added another regulator to the mix. The new addition gets absorbed by the leaf tissue immediately so I know it starts working the day I spray it. So far it has worked very well and we are not having many clippings left in the fairways. Only time will tell me if it is going to last once the summer rolls through and the plant starts processing the chemicals quicker. I have also cut down on the amount of Nitrogen I am spraying on fairways in order to lessen the chance of disease. So far color has been good, but I am planning on adding a few new nutrients to the mix that will aid in keeping it green with no additional Nitrogen.
Now that we are starting to get into some normal summertime heat, we are hand watering greens each morning and will continue to do so until November probably. Nothing is changing with the way we perform this task, but I want to let you all know what it is exactly we are doing. We use moisture meters each morning to pin point each dry area on each green. Since they are all different from one another we can't just turn the sprinklers on and expect to have consistency. These meters give us a percentage of moisture at a depth of 3 inches. Since this will be my third year watering these greens, I now know exactly where to go on each green when scouting for dry spots. Ashton is still picking this up, but it will only take a handful of hot days in order for him to gain the same knowledge. On average, we will take a reading at 35 - 50 spots for each green. Slopes dry out fast so naturally, Staley greens take a few more stabs with the meter than most. Below is a picture of the screen on my meter.